Wine Spectator – June 2023

Mark Aubert Applies a Bordeaux Mentality to Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Aubert’s trio of 2021 single-vineyard Sonoma Pinots hits all the right notes, and a tasting of library wines reveals what to expect down the road.—James Molesworth

2021 Aubert Pinot Noir CIX Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 96

Delivers a deep well of fruit, with lovely inner brightness, as gently mulled raspberry, mulberry and boysenberry fruit notes form a core that has nice underlying energy. Shows light wood spice, black tea, blood orange zest and savory accents that fill in throughout, with a mouthwatering mineral edge underneath it all. Reveals a late echo of wet earth, which caps the seriously long finish. For the cellar. Best from 2024 through 2034. From California.—J.M.

2021 Aubert Pinot Noir UV Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 95

Gorgeous, with an inviting core of raspberry, blood orange and boysenberry puree aromas and flavors that stream through, flanked by singed apple wood, dried anise and black tea notes. Shows serious depth but also drive and freshness, as a racy mineral edge lends energy from start to finish. Best from 2024 through 2033.—J.M.

2021 Aubert Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Score: 96

This has some “wow” fruit, with blackberry, black cherry and mulberry notes melded together nicely and infused liberally throughout with dark tea, blood orange zest and a sleek wet earth note. Exudes a gorgeous floral aspect as well, with hibiscus and iris notes in the background. Explosive in its range and pure in its delivery, with a pitch-perfect structure for a matrix of elements that will benefit cellaring. Best from 2024 through 2034. From California.—J.M.

2015 Aubert Pinot Noir UV-SL Vineyard Sonoma Coast
The 2015 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV-SL Vineyard shows a beautiful array of sagebrush and sassafras, with a flash of menthol even, giving it a very open and alluring feel. The core is lush but has tension along the edges as the black cherry and blackberry fruit fans out. Black tea and mineral notes are inlaid through the finish. This seems to just be hitting its stride now at age 8.—J.M.

2011 Aubert Pinot Noir CIX Estate Vineyard Sonoma Coast
The 2011 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast CIX Estate feels fully mature, with a very expressive set of sage, chaparral and herb aromas. It’s silky in feel, with graceful red cherry and blood orange coulis notes stitched with a gentle cedar threading on the finish. At age 12, and from a less noteworthy vintage, it’s showing very well.—J.M.

2005 Aubert Pinot Noir UV Vineyard Sonoma Coast
The 2005 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV Vineyard offers up a gorgeous plume of mulled raspberry, blood orange and damson plum fruit flavors that have steeped and mulled hints. It’s super refined and silky in feel, with flashes of green tea, sagebrush and warmed wood spice throughout. And at age 18 it’s still tightly knit, too, with racy mineral drive through the finish.—J.M.